May 30 - Villar de Mazarife to Hospital de Orbigo
Places with 'hospital' in their names are most often places that have been used for centuries as literally hospitals for ailing pilgrims that have been travelling across the country to visit the tomb of Santiago. This spot is no exception. It's also known for its beautiful bridge of the twelfth century which has the most (or so I've been told) arches or eyes as they're called of any of the bridges of its time. It's also one of the longest bridges built in that era, spanning several streams of the river Orbigo.
With the exception of the last few kilometers, we pounded the pavement to get here, feeling much more tired than we would have had we been walking on a dirt path. This particular stretch was unremarkable, pleasant for the most part with the exeption of the part that ran along the railway track and the section that circled the sewage treatment plant as we entered the city. But it had nothing in particular to recommend it. It's fields freshly planted with corn, fields of wheat, a complex irrigation system and with bright red poppies dominating the flowers mixed with grasses dancing in the ever present wind as we made our way along the treadmill. A quick stop for a coffee, fresh orange juice and a bocadillo with scrambled eggs made for a little diversion at the 8 or 10 kilometer point at a spot called Villavente.
I am really tired today because the albergue had a tour bus group come in after we we all in bed. A huge busload, rolled their suitcase in on the tiles sounding like a thunder storm or a group of cattle gone wild. I don't know what the story is but the people were all hungry because they had plastic bags full of food that they rustled , munching on whtever was in them for what seemed like hours. The sign on the bus in the morning said something like Ukstansky and they certainly weren't speaking a language I recognized. They did try to be quiet and most of them got into their sleeping bags quite quickly but there were, of course the inevitable trips to the bathroom with doors banging while they got themselves organized. I don't blame them - they actually seemed like a group of nice people, but the albergue should never have done that unless it was a se rious situation of some kind. All albergues have signs that the doors are closed and lights out at 10:00, but in this case it obviously doesn't include tour groups! That's the albergue Sam Antonio de Padua in case you're in the area. They do a lot of things right but that was one big bonehead move. Those of us in my area got basically no sleep after that. As those of you who know me might imagine, I was like a grizzly bear with a sore head for the first few hours this morning (and afternoon!)
Hospital de Orbigo, where we are now is planning a big party this weekend. They have streamers across the main streets in the old town and, according to the posters are planning a whole medieval themed weekend with jousts (part of the history surrounding the bridge) and medieval dinners. Everyone is encouraged to come in medieval costumes and a meiga (witch) scene will be held at one in the morning on one of the nights. Knowing how the Spanish are on a regular Saturday night I imagine this will be quite a scene. Too bad in a way we'll miss it but I'm sure it'll be chaotic and loud. Men are busy all over the old towns putting up old fashioned structures and bringing in bales of hay. It looks like tonnes of fun for the locals and whoever else it draws.
The end of the tunnel approaches and still you two keep right on chugging with no sign of wearing down in spite of the not so great sleeps seems last few posts. Will you burn your clothes at the end, I wonder?
ReplyDeleteYou are a pair of awesome peregrinas.
JD