Today we arranged to take a transport baggage van from Miramont-Sensacq to Saint-Jean-le-Vieux. We chose this spot because we wanted to get into Saint Jean Pied-de Port for May 1st to meet Damon and Kristina who were going to join us for a few days on the camino, but also because I wanted to walk into SJPP through the upper 'port' or door- a sentimentality I know but hey, since I'm here, why not?
The young man who was driving the van was a charming young guy who told us about all of the places we were passing and kept pointing out the views of el pays Basque - Basque country- with enough pride that I thought he must be Basque himself. But when I asked him it turned out that he isn't but does live in the Basque area.
The scenery became very beautiful as we drove into the foothills of Saint-Jean-le-Vieux. The previous flatness turned into brilliant green foothills and the houses changed so that they were all white with brick red trim. We felt that the Basques have a different relationship with the land than the people in the areas of France we had walked through. In the French section, everything is very neat and organized. The fields are immaculately groomed, the trees are planted in rows, even in the forests. Nothing is left to chance. In Basque country the houses and yards are extremely clean, tidy and thoughtfully organized. But the surrounding areas are left a bit more natural and there is the sense that the Basques people aren't trying to beat back nature in quite the same way as the rest of this part of France. Just an impression and not intended to sound like a judgement on anything.
We stayed at the Hotel Mendy in Saint-Jean-le-Vieux which was very clean and modern. I think we were the only ones in the hotel where we had a pleasant and relaxing evening, happy to be closer to SJPP and Spain.
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